There is only one way I can think of to fake a vignette in Picasa. A vignette is a darkening of the edges or corners of am image. This is typically not desirable, as it indicates that the lens let less light through to the edges than the center. However, It is usually used for artistic effect or to add a nostalgic feel to an image.
Let’s take this image for example.
We’ll create the vignette in by the graduated tint effect, saving a copy, and rotating the image image. Here’s how:
Use the Graduated Tint filter on the top edge of the image, crank the shade way up, so the edge is as dark as you want.
Apply the effect, save a copy.
Go to the new copy, rotate it 90 degrees and add the graduated tint feature to the new top edge of the picture.
Repeat this procedure until you have all four edges tinted.
Fake vignette with Picasa
If you were working with a color image and want it black and white, after the last edge is darkened, use the Tint effect, and tint with white and no color preservation.
Go back an delete all the intermediate files you created along the way.
To be frank this is a lame way to do this effect, but it can be done. I did it here more as a personal challenge than a workable solution. You wuold probably be better off creating the effect in Photoshop, or the free GIMP software.
This tutorial will show how to create new, recolored versions of your pictures using only Picasa.
Lets see how to make this photo
Into this photo:
Step 1, create 3 filtered Black and White images.
Starting with our original image, we want to make three different back and white images, using the filtered back and white feature. To do this, click the “Effects” tab, then “Filtered B&W” Then the “Pick a Color” box.
For the first filtered image, use the eye dropper to select the purest red you can, Should be the upper left most pixel in the color chart.
Click “Apply”. Then make a copy of this filtered image by clicking “File” and “Save a copy”.
Then, undo all the changes to return to the original image.
Repeat this process, only this time, select the purest green filter you can from the color chart.
Save a copy, undo all changes.
Repeat this one last time, selecting the purest blue filter you can from the color chart.
Save a copy, undo all changes.
(By the way, this is essentially what your digital camera does when first creating the image — there are three different “channels” for the Red, Green, and Blue sensitive areas of your sensor)
Step 2, Tint the Filtered Black and White Images.
Good. Now we have base images that we can use to remix into a different color combination. Take each of the Back and white images and Tint them using the “Tint” effect.
Here’s how:
On the first image B&W image we created — the RED filtered one, select the “Effects” tab, then “Tint” the “Pick A color”.
Select any color, OTHER than red. In this case this filter will make any red parts of the picture this color. In my case I wanted the berries to be blue, so I tinted this picture blue.
Move to the next image. This was the GREEN filtered image. Do the same process, but tint with a different color. I tinted this with Blue.
Repeat for the last image. The Blue Filtered one. I chose to filter with green.
Step 3: Putting them back together.
Great. Now we have three separate “channels” that we need Picasa to remix back into one.
This part is easy, just select the three tinted images, and put them together using the Multi-Exposure, picture collage feature. From the Library view, click the “Create menu” then “Picture Collage” then Choose Multi Exposure from the “Type” pulldown box.
This will reassemble the three different images back into one.
I generally find that because of the way Picasa does multi-exposures, that the result comes out a bit dark. Easily remedied.
Once the collage has been generated, select it then On the Basic Fixes Tab, click “I’m Feeling Lucky”. You can further tweak the image using the Tuning Tab, and the “Saturation” effect.
Here is another version using Yellow, Cyan and Magenta Tints
Another one using light tints around the middle of the color chart instead of the top.
I hope you find the tutorial helpful. If you post your pictures, please link to your results in the comments.
In Part 1 of this series, we examined how to set up your camera to take effective source photos to create a panorama.
Update: fixed some bad HTML markup
All-righty, then. Now that you have your pictures that you want to stitch together, move them from your camera an into your computer. I find that it is much easier to create a separate folder for each Panorama you took.
Now, go and get yourself a copy of Autostitch. This program is free, although it is not Open Source. Read the license agreement for what you can and cannot do with pictures stitched together with Autostitch (short version: if your are making images for personal use, you’re all good.)
Unzip the files to a folder on your computer. Autostitch requires no installation, once you are unzipped, you are ready to go.
Create your First Panorama.
Ok, here we go. Start Autostitch by double clicking the autostitch.exe file. You’ll see Autostich’s rather minimal interface:
Just Select “open” from the “File” menu. Navigate to the folder you created with the Images for the Panorama, and select all those images. (CTRL+click to select multiple images)
Once you click the “Open” button on the dialog box, Autostich will get busy creating the Panorama. Depending on how many images you have, and the speed of your computer this assembly can take anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes. A small window with a progress bar will let you know that Autostitch is doing it’s thing.
When the progress bar disappears, your panorama has been created. You will find a new file in the folder where your source images were called “Pano.jpg” Open that picture to see what you have created.
By default, Autostitch makes pretty small images. This is to keep rendering time down, so you can see what it will look like in a minimum amount of time.
If you are pleased with the result, you can have autostitch create a high-resolution version. Just go to “Edit” then “options”
Look for the “Output size” in the upper left hand corner. Select the “Scale%” radio button, and change the value to say 100%. Click OK, then repeat the steps to create the panorama. This will take MUCH longer to create. Have patience.
Here you can see the source images, and resulting panorama using autostitch.
If your panorama needs any adjustments, you can always follow this tutorial using Picasa.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial.
Have you created a panorama using this technique? Link to it in the comments, I’d love to see.
I know there are a whole mess of other panorama-creating programs out there, are there any easier / better than Autostitch?
In Part 1, we’ll look at how to set your camera up to get a good series of pictures to make a panorama.
I really like creating panoramic images with my camera. A Panoramic image is a series of pictures taken with your regular camera, then stitched together using software on your computer to make one complete image.
Unfortunately, when I have tried to create them before, I have ended up with long pictures that look like they have been just kinda stuck together. The result are pictures with seams, or portions of the picture that just sort of dissolve away into thin air. Something like this detail from a larger Panorama. < Thankfully there is a free software package that will greatly assist in creating panoramic images.
But first, I'll also share a couple few techniques I have found that make the final result a little better.
1a. If your camera has Panorama Assist, use it.
Many point and shoot digital cameras have a setting that will help you create you panoramas. For example, when using the Panorama Assist on my Nikon point and shoot after each shot, the LCD will display the left third of the image in the right third of the window. The idea being that as you rotate the camera, you simply overlap that bit in the next photo and the stitching will go much easier.
1b. If you don’t have Pano assist, Overlap your images by half a frame.
This may seem like overkill, but it will give the stitching software a better change to match the images up properly.
2. If you have a tripod, use it. Using a tripod to set up your shot and rotate camera will make lining up the shots much easier. If you try and hand hold the camera as you take pictures, you’ll want to overlap the images quite a bit so that the stitching software has a better chance of success. If you don’t, just try your best to keep the camera level and overlap the shots the best you can. Just plant your feet in one spot and put the camera up to you face and swivel your shoulders.
3a. If you can, set the Aperture, shutter speed, and focus ONCE (i.e. use the manual mode on your camera) for ALL the shots in the Panorama.
This may result in some too-dark areas, ans some too-light areas — but it will more closely resemble what you actually saw. If you don’t do this your panorama will probably come out with stripes for each photo where the exposure settings are a little different. So how do you know what to set? Look for the brightest area in your panorama — say towards the sun if you are outside, and set the camera to the Auto setting. Press the shutter button halfway down and see what the readings are — say for example it is Shutter of 200, Aperture of 5.6. . Switch back to Manual mode and dial those settings in.
3b. If you can’t change all those settings you can try the following:
Using the “A” or aperture Priority mode, and setting the Aperture for all the pictures to be the same. At least the depth of field will stay the same. Also set the Focus at one spot (infinity is a good choice for landscapes)
Using the “Landscape” auto setting in your camera. This will be a little icon or dial setting that looks like a mountain. That will try to set the focus at infinity and use a small aperture.
4. Shoot the Panorama Multiple Times.
If you are just not sure how to set the camera, then try shooting the panorama a few times using different settings. Use the “Exposure Compensation” feature of your camera. This is a little +/- gauge somewhere on your readout. If you set the camera to always use a -1, for example, then all of your pictures will come out a little under exposed. This is OK because you can use Picasa or another program to make it look better. Try taking the panorama with different amount of overlap.
So lets look at an example, call this the “Worst Case Scenario: Click the picture to see a larger version on Flickr
In this picture, I just set the camera on “P” and did not use a tripod, I did try to overlap the pictures by about 1/3 of a frame. You can see a bit of striping in the picture where the exposure of the different frames were a little bit different.
See how the top border is not level, that’s because I did not use a tripod and did not keep the camera moving on one plane. With some cropping, you can get rid of those curvy borders.
Here is how a panorama will look if you use the Panorama Assist feature of your Camera, and a tripod.
Click the picture to see a larger version on Flickr
You can see all the pictures used to create this Panorama in my Web Album:
Picasa has a very convenient one-click effect to create a Sepia tone image. Sepia tone images are great for creating an “old-time” photo effect. It is also nice to use Sepia tone as an alternative to pure black and white images.
You’ll need to get Picasa the photo editing software from Google to complete this tutorial.
In my opinion, the one-click version of Sepia that Picasa creates isn’t perfect.
Here is the one-click Sepia.
The images are too low on contrast, and the Sepia tone isn’t quite right for me. The one-click version is sort of a works-pretty-good-in-most-situations type deal. However, with a little tuning I think we can do better.
Here is the Sepia Tone image we want to get to:
Follow these steps to a better Sepia tone image:
First Start with the image you want to sepia tone.
Use Filtered B&W to create a pleasant B&W image. If there are people in the picture you might choose a yellow or Orange filter to improve skin tones.
Then apply the sepia filter.
Switch to the tuning tab, slide the highlights up one quarter of the way, and the shadows up to the mid point — these are approximate. The idea is to have a nice range of tones from deep rich darks to nice bright highlights.
Switch back to the Effects tab, choose the Saturation effect and slide to the right approximately halfway between full desaturation and the midpoint.
Here is a comparison of before and after:
So, My parting questions for you are:
Do you like this kind of higher contrast “sepia”, or is the one-click better?
Can you think of where this kind of effect would work?
Another great technique in for livening up your pictures is to use Focal Back and White. This is a simple technique thanks to the simplicity of Picasa.
You’ll need Picasa, the photo editing and management software from Google to do this.
This is so easy, and such a great effect.
Here is the before picture:
And After
Here are some other examples:
Tips to consider when applying the Focal Black and White Filter:
Use the Saturation Effect before the Focal Black and White to desaturate your image. This makes the transition between color and b&w more subtle
Think about applying the effect to non-circular items, using large soft focal areas.
[tags]Mike Delgaudio, Picasa, technique, photo editing, black and white, photo[/tags]
Photojojo has a great project where you take a picture and make a mailable mosaic. Essentially this project takes one picture, blows it up to poster size then prints out a bunch of pages that get cut up into postcard size chunks.
However, in the project they use Photoshop and a whole mess of steps to get the picture divided up into a bunch of sections that make up the individual postcards. I don’t know about you but I don’t have the manual dexterity to create a grid of perfect 4×6 prints using the Photoshop grid lines. I guarantee I won’t get it right the first time — and ink ain’t cheap, y’know?
If they only knew that this is a drop dead simple operation in Picasa. Oh well, it’ll just be our little secret.
Here is all you need to do:
Select your photo.
Click “Create” then “poster”
Set to 400% (or larger for more prints) on 4×6 paper
Picasa will create 16 (or more) prints, conveniently numbered with row and column in the File name
Select the images and Print.
Viola! 16 postcards that just need a stamp, address and a nice little message to have a great project with lots of anticipation.
Even if you have Photoshop, It’s still worth it to use Picasa to create your mosaic, if only for simplicity’s sake!
Photos like this are one of the reasons I chose a Digital SLR camera. In my case I use a Nikon D70. When I want it to, It can really be used to create some stunning effects.
While you probably shouldn’t buy a camera based on one photo, here is a link on Amazon for more about the camera itself. More About the Nikon D70
(This is an affiliate link, If you buy something after following this link, I get a tiny commission)
How this Shot was made:
This shot requires a bit of preparation. It is a sunrise shot, so I took it pretty darn early in the morning. The thing about sunrise shots is all the drama occurs BEFORE sunrise. Starting about 30 to 45 minutes before-hand. Choose a spot beforehand, and get there early.
What you’ll need:
Camera (duh) — with fresh batteries. cold winter mornings suck down betteries.
A Tripod
A pen flashlight, a little mag lite is perfect, so you can see the buttons on your camera. If you can work your camera with your eyes closed, this is optional.
About 45 minutes before sunrise, set your tripod up and make sure all the settings are correct. Make sure your ISO is turned all the way down (to 100 or 200 — whatever your camera has) Look through the viewfinder and make sure the horizon is level.
Know where your “Exposure compensation” button or dial is, and how to change it.
I set my camera to Aperture Priority (and a wide aperture, something like f5)
I also switched the focus to Manual on the lens, so that I just set the focus on infinity, and never changed it.
When you start taking pictures, try all different ways of setting the exposure compensation. In this case it was a
+2 — so the camera wants to make the scene brighter than it thinks it should be. The light changes fast, so try variations from -2 to +2 and places in between.
In the aperture priority mode, the shutter will open for various lengths. I prefer this when taking shots of the water, as the linger the shutter is open, the glassier the water looks.
Take LOTS of pictures. Different angles, different zoom lengths. Try to get some silhouettes of objects on the beach or in the water. This creates some visual interest.
Have you ever seen that “Marilyn” poster by Andy Warhol?
I like the pop-art feel of this poster and wanted to see if I could do it myself. Here is what I created:
Turns out, with Picasa — the photo editing software from Google — this is pretty doggone easy.
If you don’t have Picasa, you should.
Lets see how to do this!
First we’ll start with a portrait. Here is one of my daughter, that would otherwise be a throwaway pic.
First thing we do, is crop it to a square, in true Andy Warhol style.
Then we start creating our different quadrants. This is the fun part.
Take your cropped image and go to the tuning tab. Crank up the highlights and shadows slider. Then, slide up the Fill Light slider until you have something like this:
If you like the way this looks, choose “File” then “Save a copy”. This will make a copy of the picture into the same folder. This is your first quadrant:
Next, Apply a tint to the picture.
Go to the Effects Tab, then Click Tint. In the color chooser, choose a color that you like, then slide the Color Preservation slider all the way to the right. Like this:
Again, do a File | Save a copy. This is your second quadrant.
Ok, Undo All those changes except the crop. Once you are back to the image, change it to a black and white picture. (Effects tab, B&W)
Go back to the tuning tab and again, drag Highlights and Shadows all the way to the right. Drag Fill Light up until it looks good. Go back to the Effects Tab and Tint it again. Do a “File” then “Save a Copy”. This is your third quadrant.
One more time, undo all those changes except Crop.
This time Go to the Effects tab and go To “Saturation” then slide the Saturation slider all the way to the left. Switch over to tuning and slide those sliders the same way again. Repeat the tint effect with another color.
Do a final “File” | “Save a Copy” and you should now have four images in your folder that we created.
Select each of the 4 images, CTRL + CLICK each one. The four images should appear in the photo tray in the lower left hand corner of Picasa. Now we will create a Picture Grid Collage:
Go to “Create” then “Picture Collage”. In the “type” pull down menu, choose “Picture Grid”.
If you want to rearrange the pictures in the grid then click the Thumbnail of the image.
Voila, as they say. You have you’re very own pop art! Why not upload yours to Flickr and show us what you created!
This was a picture I took over the summer. At first I was only lukewarm on it, But after applying a little Picasa magic, I think it is much better. The key for making this a better picture for me was to apply a few subtle changes.
I cropped the picture using the Perfect Square Cropping methods (which is holding down Shift while you drag a cropping box)
I brought up the saturation just a bit to enhance the separation between the sky and clouds.
I sharpened once to enhance the tips of the tree.
I added a little soft focus around the tree. This smoothed out some camera noise and some artifacts from the sharpening.
So there you have it, a few subtle changes, and the picture as a whole is better.
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